How to Costume, from an Expert

( AP Photo/Dieu-Nalio Chery )
Title: How to Costume, from an Expert
Alison Stewart: This is All Of It on WNYC. I'm Alison Stewart. As of today, you have exactly two weeks to figure out your costume for Halloween. Some of you, like me, may have figured out a costume a long time ago and got everything prepped ahead of time. To find out, you have to check our Instagram at @allofitwnyc. I'm betting a lot of you are still mulling over ideas or looking for clothes and materials to help bring your ideas to life.
Well, we are here to help. Well, I'm not here to help. We've invited along an expert in the business of costume making. Amanda Whitten is a Broadway costume designer who's also been the costume coordinator for the productions of Wicked all over the world. She's also the associate costume designer of the Met Opera's upcoming production of Aida. Amanda, welcome to All Of It.
Amanda Whitten: Hi. Nice to be here.
Alison Stewart: Listeners, what are your Halloween plans? Tell us your costume ideas, or if you're having trouble turning your ideas into reality, give us a call. Unsure about what materials to use or where to find them? We have a pro here to help. Give us a call. 212-433-WNYC, 212-433-969. You can call in or you can text to us, or you can reach out on social @allofitwnyc. We want to know what your Halloween plans are. If you have costume ideas or if you need a little help, we have Amanda here to give us some guidance. 212-433-WNYC, 212-433-9692.
While we're waiting for calls to come in, I have to find out more about you. On Playbill's website, your credits include being an assistant costume designer on Wicked, assistant costume designer on Into the Woods, associate costume designer on Funny Girl. What do you see as your responsibility as an assistant or associate costume designer?
Amanda Whitten: The assistants and associates basically take the designer's designs and help them through the process of becoming clothes. The designer designs and the assistants and associates help source the fabrics and the materials, move it into the costume shops to get built, find help to create the accessories or shop the accessories. Basically, everything that needs to be done to turn that two dimensional design into three dimensions, the assistants do that work.
Alison Stewart: You have to find the sequins. You got to find the layers.
Amanda Whitten: The sequins and the beads and-- yes, everything.
Alison Stewart: Wow. How long have you been working in costuming?
Amanda Whitten: About 35 years now.
Alison Stewart: Wow. How did you start?
Amanda Whitten: My very first job was as a wardrobe intern at Glimmer Glass Opera Upstate when I was 19 and I was helping just dress opera singers, but I got to see the whole process of clothes. I got to work in the costume shop, and that was when I knew that this was pretty much what I wanted to do.
Alison Stewart: Was it something you went to school for?
Amanda Whitten: Absolutely. I did my undergrad at University of Florida State, and I have a MFA in costume design from Brandeis.
Alison Stewart: What is an MFA in costume design? What does that curriculum look like?
Amanda Whitten: Extra fine arts. Three years. It's a three-year program, and I got a master of fine arts at the end. A lot of classes and then some impractical stuff, too, shows that we did at school, and then I also did some internships and summer work.
Alison Stewart: What did you learn from the sort of academic part of being a costume designer that you've had to put into real life?
Amanda Whitten: Oh, so much of it. It's such a collaborative experience. That graduate school program you're in with your fellow students and the professors and the shops in the department, and you really learn how to work with other people to get your vision on stage, and that is what you end up doing your entire career, whether it's working with other assistants or with the designer or with the costume shops. You're always just trying to express what you're looking for and how we're going to make it happen. It's such a communicative process, all of it.
Alison Stewart: I'm speaking with Amanda Whitten, a costume designer who's worked on Broadway shows at the Met Opera. We are taking your calls and questions about Halloween costume ideas. Let's talk to Matthew, who is calling in. Hi, Matthew. Thanks for calling All Of It.
Matthew: Hi there.
Alison Stewart: Hi.
Matthew: I'm going to be Maleficent.
Alison Stewart: Maleficent.
Matthew: I have the headpiece. I have a headpiece, and I have a feather thing that goes around my neck. It's not wings, but it's like a thing that goes around my neck and shoulders. That's all I have. Where would you suggest that I go for the clothing part of it in the city?
Amanda Whitten: You could probably get away with a cape, although you might want a robe. I'm going to list a couple places that I know. Abracadabra on 21st Street sells and rents costumes, including Halloween costumes. Halloween Adventure on 4th Avenue also sells and rents. A Maleficent, though, you might luck out with a Spirit Halloween or Ricky's. And those pop up all over the city. Try those first because it'll probably be cheaper or even Party City. You might get away with-- because all it has to be is black, right? Long and black.
Alison Stewart: Yes. Matthew.
Matthew: Yes.
Alison Stewart: Yes, when you get dressed up.
Amanda Whitten: Start with Party City or Spirit Halloween or Ricky's. If you really strike out and nobody has what you're looking for, you might have to make it yourself. Or you could try Etsy. It takes a little time, but you might find a maker on Etsy who's got something, but you have to move on that fast because sometimes shipping is an issue.
Alison Stewart: Thanks a lot. This is a text. Says, "Hi. My wife has to dress up as the planet Saturn as part of a group costume at her workplace. We haven't figured out how to make her a planet, what materials to use, etcetera. She also has to take it with her on the subway." Let's start with the first part. Let's forget the subway for the moment. To be a Planet and Saturn. What do you think?
Amanda Whitten: The first thing I would check if I had to solve this in a hurry, I'd get on Amazon and see if there's already an inflatable costume of something round that you could just paint. You know those inflatable Tyrannosaurus rex costumes. There's actually quite a few inflatable costumes in all different shapes. Start there. Try Amazon, see if somebody's already solved the problem for you because then, if it's inflatable, it'll be small and you could take it on the subway.
Otherwise you're looking at paper mache or something, and that's going to be really hard to transport. See if you can find it inflatable to use as a starting point. Then for the rings, I don't-- probably suspended on strings from your shoulders. That's probably what you'd have to do.
Alison Stewart: All right, good luck with that.
Amanda Whitten: Good luck with that. I want to see a picture.
Alison Stewart: What has been the most challenging-- Yeah, I should say everybody who's calling in, take a picture and send it to us on Halloween and tag us on All Of It. WNYC. We really want to see your pictures. What has been a really challenging costume that you've had to design?
Amanda Whitten: Oh, that I've had to design. I haven't done enough design to be worth speaking of. A challenging costume I've had to be a part of creating, I would say, in Wicked, Chistery's growing wings. He's a monkey that needs to grow wings that sprout out of the back of his coat on stage in the middle of the show. It's a costume piece, we have to do it, but it's mechanical. There's a whole mechanism inside that has to be hidden and then explode. Yes, challenging is a good word.
Alison Stewart: What's a misunderstanding that you hear from people about how costuming works on Broadway?
Amanda Whitten: I think it's important to remember, at least in the case of Wicked and most shows, is that it's not like you can't go to a store and buy any of this. It's all custom made. It's the level of workmanship. They're all couture clothing. It's one of a kind, mostly handmade. You can't actually mass produce anything we do like you can in the fashion world. It's all very custom made, one person, one costume at a time.
Alison Stewart: Listeners, what are your Halloween plans? Tell us about your costume ideas, or if you're having trouble turning your ideas into reality, give us a call. 212-433-9692, 212-433, we have a pro here to help. I'm speaking with Amanda Whitten, a costume designer who's worked on Broadway and at the Met and a whole bunch of other places. Let's talk to Mira. Hi, Mira. Thanks for calling All Of It.
Mira: Yes. Hi, Alison. My costume is going to be Kamala Harris, which is basically across Dean Kamala Harris and the cat.
Alison Stewart: That's so good.
Amanda Whitten: That's very cute.
Alison Stewart: Have you figured out what parts? What?
Mira: Yes. I'm going to get probably a blue power suit or some shirt like that and cat ears and a cat tail. I can't really find a power suit for children.
Alison Stewart: She's only nine.
Amanda Whitten: How old are you? You're only nine?
Alison Stewart: Yes.
Mira: Yes.
Amanda Whitten: You could try Amazon, because a lot of costumes that you find on Amazon actually run really small. If you get the smallest, like, in my experience, it'll say it's an adult small. it's not going to be an adult small. It's going to be a kid size. You could try that. Try an Amazon suit and get the smallest size. You might still take it in a little bit, but you'll be closer.
Alison Stewart: Good luck, Mira. Let's talk to Zach in line one. Hi, Zach. Thanks for calling All Of It.
Zach: Hey, Zach. Me Zach?
Alison Stewart: Yes. Is that you?
Zach: Hey.
Alison Stewart: Hey.
Zach: Yes, Alison. How's it going?
Alison Stewart: Good.
Zach: I have been making my own masks for three years using silicone casts and things like that. Last year, it was a dog face that I covered in fur. This year, I was trying to go for a lizard, a lizard wizard kind of thing. The texture of the skin made it really hard to separate the mask from the mold. I'm wondering if you had any suggestions for either things that I could use that are like the texture of lizard skin to cover up like a structure of the face versus-- or maybe a less intense texture.
Amanda Whitten: You might be able to cover up the texture of the face. I have two thoughts. You could find a really thin leather. You've covered stuff with fur before, so the leather probably wouldn't be too much of a stretch for you. There's a place on 30, I'm thinking out loud right now, 35th Street between 7th and 8th, called Global Leather. There's also another one called Leather, Suedes, and Skins, also on 35th Street. You can look them both up online and see if you can find a thin leather that's got a lot of texture that might give you what you need.
The other thing you can try. It's worth looking in the world of spandex. There's a place called Spandex House on 38th Street between 7th and 8th. You wouldn't believe what they do out of spandex these days. I don't know, but you might find like some crazy snake, skinny, scaly thing that stretch. If it's stretch, it's super easy to work with.
Alison Stewart: Thanks so much. Let's talk to Stephen from Scarsdale. Hi, Steven, you're on with Amanda Whitten and everybody else. Hi.
Steven: Hi there. Thanks for taking my call. I'm calling on behalf of my son, who's 11 years old and he wants to go as the IRS or a tax consultant because both are scary. I was wondering what we should do to help him do that.
Amanda Whitten: The IRS.
Amanda Whitten: Oh, that's funny.
Amanda Whitten: Well, you need a suit.
Alison Stewart: A suit, and then I think you should just stuff him full, like all the seams and openings with tax forms, which I'm sure you could print off of the internet or something. Yes, a little suit. Then, out of all of the pockets and openings, have them being exploding with paper.
Alison Stewart: Thanks so much for calling in. "Hi, my 11-year-old daughter wants to be Eloise from Bridgerton for Halloween. How do we rustle up a Regency era dress? We have tons of fake pearls and ideas for her hair, but the dress is really stumping me. Thanks so much."
Amanda Whitten: These days, because of the popularity of Bridgerton, the internet could be your friend. Check Amazon, you might find something that works. Oh, there was another place that I just saw the other day. Give me one second while I look up my bookmarks.
Alison Stewart: I was thinking like old Rachel. Is it Jessica McClintock? Remember those dresses?
Amanda Whitten: Oh, if you could buy one, Jessica McClintocks are getting pretty popular these days, so I don't know. No, I don't think I have it. Try Amazon, because you can find stuff like that. Again, try Etsy, although you should look quickly because it does take some time to ship. Then you can Google "period clothing." There are a couple of recreation companies that make things and you might find something there.
Alison Stewart: All right, let's talk to Rachel from Niagara. Hi, Rachel. Thanks for calling All Of It.
Rachel: Hi. We have an annual Halloween party at the school that I teach at and it's just the teachers. Last year I won the costume contest. I was a queen bee. I was dressed like bee, but I had a beehive hairdo, which was amazing. It was like 3 feet high and I had bees all in it. The costume was phenomenal. My niece, I have to give credit, she made it. This year, I don't know what I'm going to be. And this question is for those of us who need easy costumes to throw together that look really good.
Alison Stewart: An easy costume she can throw together that looks great.
Amanda Whitten: You don't want to build anything, I'm guessing. It's whatever you can find in your closet. You could try, let's see, you could be a nun. That one's easy to do, although it's not super fun. You can also just think about pop culture. Mudang isn't going to be easy. Pesto, the giant baby penguin, might be easy.
Alison Stewart: Those are good ideas. Let's talk to Vivian from Queens. Hi, Vivian. Thanks for calling All Of It.
Vivian: Hi, how are you?
Alison Stewart: I'm great.
Vivian: My question is, I'm having a pre-Halloween murder mystery party and the guests in this mystery are supposed to be dressed in the 1930s and more upscale. This is supposed to be on a train that is holding elegant people. Like Orient Express, except it's not Orient Express. My question is, what can I tell people I'm inviting that won't stress them out on having to go find 1930s clothing? What are quick tips?
Amanda Whitten: I'm going to tout Amazon again. You'd be surprised what you can find. If you search "retro costumes," you might find some stuff. If you just search on the web, "retro costumes," there are quite a few recreation reproduction companies now that make things. They make it new, but it's meant to look '20s or '30s or '40s. You can search by decades. Look for retro costumes online, and you'll find quite a bit of stuff out there.
Alison Stewart: Let's talk to Katya from Princeton. Hi, Katya.
Katya: Hi. How are you guys doing?
Alison Stewart: Doing okay.
Speaker E: Yes. I would like to be Itch for Halloween the clown. However, as a female, I would also-- also with a bit more time in my hand, I would like to make it more feminine. Always creepy, of course, with the makeup, but I would like to elevate it, push it a little bit farther. I was thinking maybe a gown or a clothe. I don't know. How could we make it clowny but more elevated?
Amanda Whitten: You could look for a 1950s petticoat in a bright color. Again, they sell these on Amazon, and they're super cheap, but they're really fluffy and full. A girl clown would definitely wear something like that and then just use the rest of the clown parts, whatever it wears and the makeup, but a big, fluffy crinoline skirt in a bright color.
Alison Stewart: Let's talk to Karen from Brooklyn. She's got some advice. Hi, Karen. Thanks for calling All Of It.
Karen: Oh, hi. Love your show. I'm a little nervous, but I want to tell everyone about a wonderful organization called Fabscrap. F-A-B-S-C-R-A-P.com. It's in the Brooklyn terminal, and I volunteer there. They reclaim material from all kinds of fabric manufacturers, and they sell things at huge discounts. They have sequins and all kinds of decorations, especially for costumes. If people look them up online, I think it's worth the trip. Especially the guy that wanted some kind of leather, textured leather. They have fake leather, faux leather, faux fur, all kinds. It's a huge warehouse with tons and tons of material, and they sell at a great discount.
Alison Stewart: Thank you so much for calling.
Amanda Whitten: That's awesome.
Alison Stewart: If you had to give out some examples of pretty simple costumes that anyone could think about in the next couple of weeks, what would you suggest?
Amanda Whitten: Oh, you put me on the spot.
Alison Stewart: Oh, I'm sorry.
Amanda Whitten: Sure. Trying to think of easy things that people could do out of their house. Oh, I saw something online recently where people came dressed as their fathers to a party. It's always fun to dress as somebody you know or someone else and see what you can do out of your closet. Like flannel shirts or whatever. Like, pick a celebrity and see what you can put together out of your closet.
Alison Stewart: This is really funny. We don't have time for Neela, but I'm going to say this. She's dressed up as Robert Moses, as Moses the prophet. A suit and a striped bathrobe and a beard and a wig. That's awesome.
Amanda Whitten: That's awesome. So New York.
Alison Stewart: So New York. My guest has been Amanda Whitten. Amanda, thank you so much for taking time today.
Amanda Whitten: Lovely.
Alison Stewart: That is All Of It. I'm Alison Stewart. I appreciate you listening and I appreciate you. I'll meet you back here next time.